Maui, Hawaii
September, 2024
When the world briefly opened back up in 2021, we grabbed our freshly stamped vaccine certificates and flew to Hawaii. We had never been but, like so many Americans on the mainland, heard so much about. The good, the bad, and the random. We weren’t sure what to expect, and the islands blew our minds. We were absolutely in love. So when the opportunity to go back presented itself this year, we did not hesitate. Having visited Oahu and the Big Island (link here), this time we were headed to Maui.
As with every trip that I take, I read and research to understand the context of the place, its history, culture, and current issues. Hawaii, the last US state to enter the union in 1959, lies 2500 miles into the Pacific ocean. Despite the familiar comforts of home (the cell phone coverage, the wall plugs, the brands for sale in grocery stores), this place feels like a foreign country, and that’s the beauty of it.
South to North, Maui is the second island, the second youngest, and second largest after the Big Island. Just large enough to have many diverse ecosystems, and just small enough to be accessible from the same home base, it is a firm favorite for many. Now, Maui boasts very many all inclusive resorts (even Disney!), but if lounging by the pool all day is only one item on your wishlist, Maui does not disappoint.
I have to write about the devastating 2023 wildfires that swept through the Western part of the island and destroyed a vibrant and populous community of Lahaina and surrounding areas. Many lives, homes, businesses, cultural and historical sites were lost, and this tragedy is still fresh and raw for the residents. If you are planning to travel to Maui, please be sensitive and respectful and consider how you can help the recovery efforts.
We spent eight days on Maui and, for a change, did not have a strict itinerary. Instead, we had a list of activities (and places to eat) to choose from each day. Since we based ourselves in South Maui, we did not trek over to the West of the island. We decided to save ourselves new adventures for next time. Here goes for our impressions, recommendations, and favorites from the Valley Isle!
Maui Beaches
My spirit is most at home, I have learned, on a sea or ocean beach. The island has some of the world’s best, and offers great adventures for those into surfing, snorkeling, diving, building sandcastles, launching kites, exploring tide pools, or lounging in the sun with a great book or drink.
As a general rule of thumb in South Maui, the further south toward Wailea - Makena, the calmer the waters, and the more stunning the scenery. Maui experiences consistent trade winds daily, so the best chances at calm water are before 10-11 a.m., a bonus for early risers or parents of small children.
Po’olenalena Beach
This is a long stretch of three separate coves - each beautiful in their own way. Facilities are scarce, but parking is available, and the snorkeling is really good at the cove ends. A tide chart is a handy tool to avoid getting washed away just after laying out all your towels on the soft golden sand (don’t ask how i know).
Maluaka Beach
Without a doubt, our favorite morning spot. In addition to the clearest, most turquoise water, the sand is opalescent and soft, the palm trees are large and offer gently swaying shade, and the views of the Molokini crater and Kaho’olawe Island are spectacular.
Snorkeling is fantastic around the southern tip of the beach, and the sighting of turtles is almost guaranteed. In fact, no need to snorkel or even be in the water to spot them swimming up and down the beach. Honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles) are wild animals, and enjoy federal and state protection so visitors are encouraged to always stay a respectful distance away. Hawaiians have a deep and profound respect for Honu and believe that they represent ancestral spirits and bring good luck and peace.
Makena (Big) Beach
This is a large gorgeous beach in a state park (which means paid parking) but should be avoided on a particularly windy day. The waves are a lot of fun, but can be very dangerous due to unpredictable swells and rip currents.
‘Āhihi-Kīna‘u Natural Reserve
This turned out to be my favorite snorkeling spot, but there isn’t much of a beach here. A protected area situated on the site of the last eruption of Haleakala volcano some 500 years ago, the site features a large paid parking lot and a small lava rock beach. There are two marked comfortable water access points and the reef starts almost immediately off shore. As the bottom is mostly lava rock and not sand, the visibility here tends to be better too. We came here on our last day, and while the underwater ecosystems looked similar to other snorkeling spots, the variety, quantity, and, frankly, size of the creatures made this visit an absolute winner for me. I even saw a juvenile honu cozily snoozing on top of some coral!
Other South Maui Beaches
Wailea, Ulua/Mokapu and Keawakapu are wonderful for a casual afternoon and sunset watching. Four Seasons, Andaz, and Fairmont resorts are all located here, but all beaches in Hawaii are public and accessible.
Road to Hana
The Road to Hana is a famous 60 mile long scenic drive that serpentines along the northeastern coast of the island. The drive is nervewrecking, the views are breathtaking, what’s not to love? We started our adventure in the colorful town of Paia in north Maui, which is worth visiting all on its own. We grabbed a coffee and meandered past bright souvenir, art, and clothing boutiques that line the town’s main street. The most memorable site for us was the Mantokuji mission Soto Zen Buddhist temple and cemetery, founded in the early twentieth century, that sits perched above the turquoise ocean. But time was of the essence for us. We decided not to split the drive into two days, so we grabbed snacks for the road at the local organic grocery Mana Foods, and set off.
Road to Hana has a multitude of stops along the way, featuring waterfalls, ocean vistas, fruit stands, caves, gardens, beaches, and, naturally, banana bread for sale. We made a rough plan of the stops for the way there and the way back, hoping to complete the return before dark.
Our first stop was at the rainbow eucalyptus grove, mile marker 7. The trees, as it turns out, are not native to the island, but instead were introduced as firewood for sugarcane production.
We then made our way to Honomanu Bay, a stunning black sand beach. Since we did not have a 4x4 vehicle, we parked and walked down to the beach.
Honomanu Bay Black Sand Beach
We decided not to skip a short detour around the Ke’Anae peninsula, equally famous for being almost destroyed by a tsunami in the 40s, and for Aunty Sandy’s Banana bread stand. While the black jagged lava beach had absolutely stunning views set against peaceful (and very low lying) taro fields, the banana bread was, unfortunately, underwhelming.
More and more dizzied by the narrow serpentine road hanging above ocean cliffs, we drove right through and past Hana, thus technically concluding the drive. Stubborn and incredulous, we insisted on going further south to the Kipahulu district of the Haleakala National Park. The road past Hana there gets even worse, adding deep potholes to blind 90 degree curves. A smart traveler would have stayed in Hana for the night to enjoy the beautiful Waimoku Falls hike and learn more about this part of the park. But we still had to make our way back making the most of the daylight we had left.
Our last stop before rushing back was at the Koki Beach park for a quick dip and a glimpse at the red sand beach.
Upcountry Maui and Haleakala volcano
Haleakala National Park pass is valid for 3 days, so we planned our visit to the Kipahulu district (part of the Road to Hana) and the Summit district, with a beach day break in between. We decided to skip the sunrise experience at Haleakala since reservations and a very early rise are required. Instead, we went for an afternoon exploring upcountry Maui, and a sunset in the park.
We started with a stroll through a cozy town of Makawao, where the air was already much cooler than down by the beaches. Fortified by delicious coffee from Espresso Mafia, we stopped in a few quaint shops, including the beautiful lei making space Haku Maui, and a quirky Dragon’s Den Herb Shop.
A few minutes outside of town, Sacred Garden of Maliko greeted us with squawking of a mother hen with a flock of tiny yellow chicks. The place is a plant nursery and a tranquil space for meditation and labyrinth walks underneath tall kukui trees.
To secure provisions for our summit sunset picnic we visited Surfing Goat Dairy and Maui Bees Farm.
Finally, we made our ascent to the park first to the Leleiwi outlook, and then to the Visitor Center. The sunset above the clouds was breathtaking, and the goat cheese and honey bites never tasted better.
Maui Food
We ate well. In fact, we ate really really well. From the farmers markets, the freshest poke, the shave ice, the fruit, the fish, the venison - Maui is a great destination for delicious adventures.
Ululani Shave Ice
The original and best shave ice using the purest water and home made real fruit syrups. We may or may not have visited multiple times. The have multiple locations on the island, and all over Hawaii.
Poke and Fish
Poke is ubiquitous in Hawaii, and here you can get it with never frozen tuna, which offers the best texture and flavor. Our favorite spot, South Maui Fish Company, also offers grilled catch of the day. For a value proposition, a grocery store like Foodland, delivers.
For more fish (no such thing as too much fish!) we visited Paia fish market south side. Freshest catch, prepared your way, in 6 or 8 oz portions, plus local beer and wine, and the place is packed for lunch and dinner.
Fruit/Farmers Markets
Farmers markets are the best place for Maui souvenirs, edible or otherwise. Honey, baked goods, cheese, produce, and, of course, the freshest (and sometimes, unique) fruit - we tried to visit a market almost every single day. Maui makes it easy with many locations around the island.
Other deliciousness
Banana bread on Maui was the most expensive we’ve ever had, and likely the best. Maui Bread Company had a wide selection, but their banana walnut load is a cut above.
Right next door, That’s a wrap offers colorful better for you bites, including vibrant acai bowls.
For a special night out we visited South Maui Gardens. A beautiful space, live music, and the most incredible food from Kitoko. The place has a small menu and features local and seasonal fare.
The Japanese food is worth another mention. We had a wonderful lunch at Restaurant Matsu in Kahului. A take out only spot, Ichiban Okazuya serves no-frills filling katsu and curry plates. Down the road, Shikeda Bento Patisserie offers incredible musubi and onigiri.
Books
Shark Dialogues by Kiana Davenport
